I'm meeting Veeramani after five years. Our journey began when I first met him as a translator at the Bohar Nadi Astrological Centre. Since then, he has guided me through Kumbakonam's esoteric temples every Adi and Marghazi—two spiritually significant months in Tamil Nadu—during which I've made frequent pilgrimages, even throughout the pandemic.

　　Veeramani, who taught himself English by conversing with foreign tourists, now leads the SAHASRARA Group of Institutions, an aviation and hospitality academy, and escorts international visitors on pilgrimages across India. Recently, in Somnath, someone asked him, "Are there temples in Tamil Nadu?" Well, yes—around 40,000 ancient temples dot Tamil Nadu's spiritual heartland, Kumbakonam. These temples, steeped in myth and millennia of history, resonate with profound significance. Their architecture, orientation, and location are meticulously designed to alleviate planetary afflictions or doshas caused by the placements of celestial bodies in one's birth chart.

　　A Journey Of Redemption

　　Veeramani takes me to the Shree Abimukeshwarar Temple, which is dedicated to absolving Sthreehatha Dosha and is located by Kumbakonam's revered Mahamaham Tank. There, we meet a priest who, after observing my symptoms, identifies several doshas—Pitru Dosha, Mangal Dosha, and Sarpa Dosha—attributed to past karma. I'm taken aback by the mention of Sarpa Dosha, recalling the "Curse of the Cobra" in Sri Lanka, where a truck driver's accident with a snake led to his three children being born with snake-like skin. The priest reassured me that nothing so dramatic occurred and explained that such doshas affect most people today, as few follow the Vedic remedies. What happens next is even more remarkable—without seeing a horoscope, the priest accurately forecasts my future, his predictions aligning with those of professional astrologers.

　　The priest, astrologers, and Nadi readers all agree that in my previous life, I was a Brahmin priest who "misbehaved" with a lower caste girl, and this sin continues to follow me. Doshas, they explain, can persist across lifetimes or even kalpas (cycles of creation) if not atoned for. To seek resolution, I visited the Valampuri Nathar Temple, another sacred site for Sthree Hatha Dosha, with which I feel a strong connection. Veeramani reveals that this temple is particularly aligned with my nakshatra (Tamil Nadu's temples can be that specific!). Among its many unique features are four Bhairavas, powerful forms of Shiva, including Unmatta Bhairava, known for healing twisted minds.

　　A Wake-Up Call

　　I then travelled for three hours to the Kaichinneswarar Temple, where legend has it that Indra worshipped Shiva in search of absolution for Sthree Hatha Dosha. It is said that Indra's fingerprints are imprinted on the svayambhu lingam. In light of the rape cases that dominate national headlines, it strikes me that even the gods themselves are not immune to the effects of Sthree Hatha Dosha. This dosha, which stems from crimes against women, is reflected in planetary positions in the horoscope, indicating specific wrongdoings—ranging from physical and mental abuse to depriving women of their rightful due, making false promises of marriage, abandoning women, or ill-treating female relatives like mothers and sisters.

　　On Veeramani's suggestion, I visited a temple dedicated to Yama. As I head straight towards the sanctum, my chauffeur frantically rushes after me, warning that I must first offer obeisances at the Yama shrine before entering the main temple. Alarmed by my mistake, and recalling the Upanishads that teach nothing is ever accidental—our past life actions influencing the present—I worry about the consequences. However, a priest approaches me at the Shiva shrine and says, "Your mother will be fine." Oddly enough, my mother has recently fallen ill. While the priest's reassurance is comforting, I return to the Yama shrine, fearful, and plead for forgiveness for my breach of protocol—even as annoyed priests chase me out after hours!

　　A Divine Interruption

　　The next day, we embark on our annual pilgrimage to the awe-inspiring Shani Navagraha Temple, located 2.5 hours from Kumbakonam. Every time we've visited the temple during a Shani transit (and Shani is currently in retrogression), a family dispute has arisen either before or after the visit. As they say, history repeats itself. There seems to be some inexplicable power at this temple that brings out the worst in us at the most inconvenient times. This time, we are tricked by a flower vendor who convinces us to purchase an Archana basket for almost four times the usual price, claiming that the veshti must be donated to the temple. Later, we discover, through a newspaper exposé, that these "donations" are recycled. Such is the hidden connection between temples and vendors!

　　The renowned Aadi Amavasya arrives, the most auspicious Amavasya after Mahalaya for performing tarpanam. We have come to Kumbakonam specifically during this period, even though we were in the vicinity just a week ago, solely to perform the tarpanam (a Vedic ritual offering libations to ancestors) for my father at the ancient Muktheeswarar Temple, where Lord Ram himself performed tarpanam for King Dasharat. Every arrangement has been meticulously made. Yet, when I woke up that morning, a nagging feeling told me that the tarpanam may not happen today.

　　Instead of leaving early, we linger at INDECO Swamimalai, enjoying a sumptuous weekend breakfast served outdoors in the charming, tree-shaded grounds. The calming vibe here feels almost temple-like, yet we find ourselves making multiple trips to the live counters for masala dosas, idlis, vadais, and more while repeatedly requesting copious cups of the famed Kumbakonam Degree Coffee from the ever-obliging steward Tamil. There's something slightly unseemly about this morning's indulgence, especially before a Vedic ritual that traditionally requires an empty stomach at dawn.

　　We eventually leave INDECO at 10 o'clock, feeling overly satisfied. As we approach the temple, my misgivings intensify. To our shock, we are denied entry—the head priest's brother-in-law has passed away that morning, and the temple is closed. Can you imagine? We had planned this tarpanam for Aadi Amavasya all year and travelled so far for it, and now the temple shuts today of all days! It feels as though the entire universe is conspiring against us. Given my belief in the deep karmic interconnectedness of the cosmos, I am beside myself. I sensed Saturn's obstruction during this transit, and now it has come to fruition. Panicked, I call Veeramani, desperately asking what this means. He responds calmly, "Go to Lalitambiagai. She is waiting for you. You were meant to visit Her first."

　　We then head to the second temple on our itinerary for the day—the renowned early Chola Lalitambigai Temple, celebrated for its stunning sculptures. Here, we witness the abhishekams (Vedic rituals involving the pouring of milk) for both Shiva and Lalitambigai (Parvati), a deeply spiritual and serene experience.

　　Thepperumanallur's Sacred Paths

　　

　　We transferred from INDECO to RAS Residency, which offers a shuttle service we've used for our failed tarpanam pilgrimage and plan to use for our airport drop to Trichy. Although we're booked for one night, we quickly realise it's a convenient stop for pilgrims. We had planned to end our trip at the Serai Chikmagalur, but the rains in Karnataka delayed our travels, so we stayed longer at RAS Residency. We enjoy their plush suites, delicious dosas, and speciality cheese naan, which is popular with guests from Malaysia, Singapore, and South Africa.

　　A few days later, I'm still in Kumbakonam. After visiting the famed Adi Kumbeshwarar Temple, just 15 minutes from RAS Residency, I received news that Chikmagalur is now open.

　　Veeramani commandeers a friend's car to take my mother and me to the Shree Vishwanatha Swami Temple in Thepperumanallur, 8 km from Kumbakonam. We arrive just as the priest is about to lock up. Priests have turned me away in the past, with astrologers explaining that "one must be invited to visit a temple." But this time, the priest graciously lets us in, and Veeramani breathes a sigh of relief, avoiding what he believes could have been a cosmic setback.

　　This temple holds a remarkable legend: a snake would pluck leaves from a sacred bilva tree and enter the sanctum to place them on the Shiva lingam. During a solar eclipse, the snake was found coiled on the lingam, and on a special festival day, it even garlanded the lingam with its moulted skin. Photos of these occurrences are displayed in the temple, though only a local newspaper reported them. Interestingly, a cat in a Bangkok temple, believed to have been a cursed monk in its past life, gained global attention, while this snake's story remains largely local.

　　Just as we leave, a freak thunderstorm erupts. Miraculously, we make it back to RAS, and even more incredibly, my mother's sudden illness vanishes after our visit to the temple.

　　Note: The views expressed in this article are those of the author alone and do not reflect the opinions or endorsements of Outlook Traveller.