Punjab—the land of five rivers, is a place where life and food are celebrated with equal zest. To say that Punjabis live life king-size isn't an exaggeration; it's a way of life. If you've ever had the privilege of knowing a Punjabi or being one, you know what I mean. Warmth, laughter, and hospitality aren't just traits but traditions.

　　If life ever feels dull, a trip to Punjab might just be what you need. Whether it's Amritsar, Ludhiana, Jalandhar, or Hoshiarpur, the size of the city doesn't matter. You'll return with a heart full of love and, quite likely, a belly full of delicious food. Punjabis will feed you like family, no questions asked.

　　Most people associate Punjab with Amritsar's iconic Golden Temple or Chandigarh's urban charm. And while I love these places, Ludhiana holds a special place in my heart. Known as Punjab's Manchester, Ludhiana buzzes with industry, from hosiery factories to cycle workshops. Yet, Ludhiana is more than its commerce—it's home to cultural legends like Sahir Ludhianvi, Amar Singh Chamkila and Diljit Dosanjh, blending artistry with hard work.

　　Most popular food places in Ludhiana aren't about fancy or flashy interiors; here, flavour speaks louder than presentation. My time in the city taught me that while new-age restaurants are making waves, the smaller, legacy Punjabi joints are the ones that continue to draw the crowd. You'll see a Thar pull up at one of these humble spots, food "ordered in" and devoured with relish. The city thrives on tandoori delicacies that go straight from the fire to your car. In Ludhiana, dining isn't confined to restaurant interiors. Roll down your window, and a boy will dash to your car to take your order. Soon, your meal will arrive on a neat tray, ready to be savoured in the comfort of your vehicle.

　　Most of my trips to Ludhiana have revolved around food, from my first visit in 2016 to my most recent one in November 2024. And each time, I've been guided on these food adventures by Jatin Khurana, insider, fellow chef, and true-blue Punjabi soul. Thanks to these culinary visits, I can now confidently claim to know the ABCDs of Ludhiana's chicken dishes. Here, A isn't for Apple—it's for Aman Chicken. B? That's for Baba Chicken!

　　If you're in Ludhiana for just one day and want to try the best of the best, my list is simple and straight—much like the Punjabi way of life, where decisions are clear: if it's food, it must be delicious, and if it's not, it's simply not worth your time.

　　A For Aman Chicken

　　Ludhiana has two kinds of people: those who love Aman Chicken and those who haven't yet formed an opinion. Started in 1985 by Gurjinder Singh "Bittu" at Neem Wala Chowk, this iconic eatery started off as a humble venture. Step inside, and you'll notice that Aman Chicken is unpretentious.

　　There are no flashy interiors or elaborate decor to distract you. Instead, the focus is on what truly matters—the food. While the menu offers a variety of options, the crowd favourite is the lemon chicken. Picture this: a creamy, tangy, lemon-infused gravy with a subtle kick of pepper coating tender pieces of chicken marinated and cooked in a tandoor.

　　The result? A smoky, desi flavour bomb that lingers long after the last bite. Aman Chicken is also famous for its rarra chicken, but for me, the refreshing citrusy notes of the lemon chicken paired with their flaky laccha paratha is an unbeatable combination.

　　B For Baba Chicken

　　Baba Chicken began in 1962 when Sardar Harnam Singh, affectionately called "Baba Ji," opened a small eatery near Society Cinema. Baba Ji's use of freshly ground masalas created flavours that captured hearts. The eatery introduced dishes like tandoori chicken and fish, becoming a foundation of Ludhiana's food culture.

　　In 1980, his son, Sardar Himmat Singh, refined the recipes, leading to the opening of the Model Town outlet in 1991. Today, Baba Chicken has grown into a household name, with branches across North India and Canada. For Ludhiana locals, Baba Chicken is a tradition. Even those torn between options often bring friends and guests here, proudly sharing the city's culinary culture.

　　Aman Chicken and Baba Chicken are sort of rivals over butter chicken—but we can enjoy both, keeping diplomatic chicken relations!

　　C For Chawla Chicken

　　When I think of Cream Chicken in Ludhiana, I think of warmth, heritage, and the iconic Chawla Chicken or Chawlas2.

　　Born in the 1960s in Haldwani, Sardar Attar Singh Chawla is said to have created the iconic kali mirch ka chicken. This dish features tender chicken simmered in milk and cream, flavoured with black pepper and cardamom. It’s a perfect balance—no overpowering chilli or excess oil—just a silky, rich sauce that’s light and delicate.

　　When Chawlas2 landed in Ludhiana in 1985, Ludhiana welcomed it as its own. And that’s the true spirit of Punjabi cuisine—if a dish resonates with the local taste buds, it’s adopted and cherished like a long-lost tradition. Families began taking it home after their visits, pairing the dishes with naan and mint chutney. In fact, I’d go so far as to say it’s the ideal winter meal for two—warm, filling, and perfectly crafted to be savoured slowly, allowing the flavours to fully unfold.

　　D For Dabbu Chicken

　　Another gem and a true-blue Punjabi favourite—including Jatin's—is Dabbu Chicken in Model Town. What started 45–50 years ago in a small garage has grown into a full-fledged restaurant.

　　However, most of their patrons still prefer enjoying their meal inside their cars in the classic Ludhiana-style.

　　Their signature dish is kali mirch chicken, a creamy, rich gravy that has a unique flavour and taste. Paired with flaky, pepper-infused kali mirch laccha paratha, it is truly a memorable dish.

　　The dish instantly reminded me of Bihar's gol mirch chicken that is served with paratha. Perhaps it's a shared culinary journey, with flavours travelling between Ludhiana and Bihar via migrant workers. Dabbu's version, however, leans heavily on cream and richness, suiting Ludhiana's indulgent palate while retaining its character.

　　Sadaf Hussain is an author, chef and food writer. His latest book is "Masalamandi" (2024)