Standing for 600 years and holding a special place in its nation's history, the Tokei-ji Temple, a Japanese Buddhist place of worship, is also called the "Divorce Temple". The moniker came to stick after it developed into a haven for women fleeing unhappy marriages during the Kamakura era. What started out as a place of spiritual practice and devotion changed into a symbol of women's empowerment in Japan, making for a safe space in a culture where divorce was not a common practice. Let us delve into the history and heritage of this temple to learn how it is the way it is today.

　　History of Tokei-ji

　　The foundational stone of Tokei-ji temple was laid down in the year 1285 by a nun named Kakusan-ni, the widow of Hojo Tokimune, the 8th century shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate. Kakusan-ni set up the temple as a memorial to her late husband and intended it to provide support to women facing hardships in the society. Thus, even from its onset, the place had the aspect of being a sanctuary for women, especially those in difficult marriages.

　　The temple came to gain more importance during the Kamakura and Muromachi periods turning into a place where more and more resigned themselves to escaping abusive relationships. During the mediaeval periods when divorce was not commonplace due to strict feudal laws, Tokei-ji took the role of an asylum. During the time when these women would be restricted to the quarters of the temple, they would apply for a "divorce certificate" known as "tokei". Once a woman entered Tokei-ji, she could remain there until her divorce was granted. This process typically took three years during which the temple, along with its tight-knit connection among women, would turn into a residence. After completing her stay, she was allowed to leave the temple as a free woman, symbolically liberated from her marital bond.

　　Tokei-ji’s Role in Society and Women’s Rights

　　Overtime, Tokei-ji turned into a symbolic place of liberation for women, especially during a time when societal norms heavily restricted women's autonomy. In feudal Japan, the concept of divorce was nearly unheard of and women were far removed from its practical application. Male-dominated traditions and laws placed women in subservient roles, with little or no control over their own lives. It is needless to say that marriage was an eternal bond and divorcing a husband was unimaginable. By being a sanctuary, the temple actively allowed women to assert themselves at the same footing with men and gain their legal independence from their husbands. While the divorce process was naturally arduous, Tokei-ji provided an institutional framework to enable women to regain control over their personal lives. Being in such a role for a prolonged time turned the temple into a historical symbol of autonomy and women's rights.

　　Architecture of Tokei-ji

　　Tokei-ji is a beautiful affair of traditional Buddhist design built in the typical style of the Kamakura-period Buddhist structures. It features clean lines, simple wooden beams and lush, green spaces. The design strikes a serene and calming atmosphere, perfect for the spiritual practices that have taken place here for centuries. A notable feature of the temple is its surrounding garden that remains well-manicured and tranquil to this day. The lush greenery, stone pathways and ponds offer a setting for peaceful reflection. The garden's open spaces enhance the symbolism for freedom representing the liberation and breathing space that the temple would provide for the women. Another striking feature is the temple’s main hall, which houses the statue of the temple’s founder, Kakusan-ni. Visitors to Tokei-ji often come to pay their respects to the founder and the many women who have found peace and freedom through the temple's sanctuary.

　　Cultural and Spiritual Practices

　　While the temple is no longer involved in the formal process of granting divorces, it remains a vital place for spiritual reflection and meditation, and thus, continues to hold cultural and spiritual significance in modern-day Japan. It also acts as an important pitstop for those exploring the history of women's rights and gender roles in Japan. It acts as a reminder of how far Japanese society has come in terms of gender equality, and how the resilience of women, even in the face of oppression, has shaped the country’s modern identity.

　　In addition, Tokei-ji hosts yearly celebrations and festivals honouring the temple's lengthy history. The Obon Festival, where families get together to commemorate the spirits of their ancestors, is the most important of these. This celebration also offers a chance to consider the history of the temple and the women who took sanctuary there.

　　The Information

　　Address: 1367 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 247-0062, Japan

　　Timings: 9 am to 4 pm, all days of the week