Zahra keeps fiddling with her hijab as she weaves tidbits about Bahrain into her own life stories. A Muslim millennial born in a Gulf country, she appears caught between tradition and modernity—between the ideals of contemporary feminism and the weight of age-old patriarchy.

　　As if sensing my thoughts, Zahra recalls the moment she stumbled upon a photograph of her grandmother in her youth. “She was wearing a miniskirt in the 1960s,” she exclaims, her voice tinged with exaggerated disbelief. “Today, she won’t even let me step outside without an abaya or at least a hijab.”

　　Zahra Al Muhammad, our 24-year-old guide, leads us through the heart of Bahrain. Outside our air-conditioned bus, the sun blazes relentlessly, seeming to vaporize everything in sight. Each time I step out, the humidity fogs my camera lens, and the heat feels like it’s melting my very being.

　　So when a waiter at Ateeq Alsoof—an old restaurant in Manama, Bahrain’s capital and largest city—offers me a chilled saffron and chia seed drink called zaffron, I gulp it down eagerly, only to realize it is cloyingly sweet. "The locals here love their saffron," I’m told.

　　“Ateeq Alsoof” is part of a phrase that translates to We prefer the old over the new, Zahra explains. Over the next few days, I will hear this sentiment echoed time and again—though, ironically, much of Bahrain’s younger generation is embracing the exact opposite.

　　Site Of The Dilmun Civilisation

　　The Kingdom of Bahrain comprises 33 natural islands and 50 artificial ones. Home to over 1.4 million people, the country feels noticeably quieter in July, as many residents escape the summer heat on vacation abroad.

　　Our first stop is the Bahrain National Museum, where we get a glimpse into the kingdom’s rich history. Relics from the Stone Age and the ancient Dilmun civilization offer fascinating insights into Bahrain’s pre-Islamic past, weaving stories of a time long before the modern skyline took shape.

　　Dilmun was a crucial trading hub between Mesopotamia and the Indus Valley. According to a legend found on Mesopotamian clay tablets, King Gilgamesh of Uruk traveled to Dilmun in search of the secret to eternal life from Ziusudra, the immortal. Gilgamesh was taught to dive to the seabed and retrieve a flower believed to restore youth—possibly a pearl. However, before he could use it, a snake consumed the flower, shedding its skin and regaining its youth instead.

　　Inspired by this belief, the people of the Dilmun civilization buried their dead in mounds above the earth, placing a snake alongside them. They believed that when the snake shed its skin, the deceased would be reborn. Archaeological excavations at sites such as Barbar and Saar have uncovered pearls, clay pots, and other artefacts within these burial mounds. Today, many of these ancient burial sites remain visible, dotting Bahrain’s landscape even as modern highways cut through them.

　　Pearls Of The Gulf

　　The first floor of the museum showcases scenes from everyday Bahraini life in a bygone era—pearl divers plunging into the water while tethered to their boats, their wives waiting anxiously at the harbour, and men socializing at coffee houses. Until the 1930s, pearl diving was the primary source of livelihood in Bahrain, with its high-quality pearls bringing prosperity to the region.

　　Until about five years ago, tourists could experience this heritage firsthand by snorkelling in shallow waters (1-2 metres deep) and keeping any pearls they found as souvenirs. However, due to the overexploitation of the seabed, stricter regulations were introduced. Today, only licensed locals are permitted to practise pearl diving, while tourists are no longer allowed, explains Abdulnabi Alhabeeb, a descendant of a family of divers.

　　I settle for admiring the pearls through a glass case in the museum. They come in various sizes, shapes, and shades of white and pink. The most precious among them, known as Dana, is perfectly round with a distinctive shine.

　　Abdulnabi shares a haunting family story—his great-grandfather, a visually impaired diving expedition leader, was killed by mutineers in his crew over one of these prized pearls.

　　The pearl industry took a backseat when oil was discovered in Bahrain. On the morning of June 2, 1932, a 60-metre-deep well at the foothill of Jabal Al Dukhan (Mountain of Smoke) erupted with oil, marking the start of a new era. Oil Well No. 1 remains functional, surrounded by newer discoveries.

　　Nearby stands the legendary Tree of Life (Shajarat Al Hayat), a lone mesquite tree thriving in the arid desert for around 400 years. Its water source remains a mystery, adding to its allure. According to local legend, those who touch the tree are destined to return to Bahrain. I run my fingers over its bark before retreating to the air-conditioned bus.

　　World Heritage Of Bahrain

　　Nowhere in Bahrain is the clash of histories more evident than at Bahrain Fort (Qal'at Al Bahrain) on the northern coast. This 16th-century Portuguese fort stands atop a tell, encircled by the excavated ruins of an ancient Dilmun settlement. The fort’s walls, I’m told, were built using stones taken from the very ruins that surround it.

　　As the sun dips into the sea, the UNESCO World Heritage Site glows in golden hues, while the remnants of the Dilmun civilisation lie scattered—neglected by time, a passing sight for joggers, and a playground for feral cats.

　　Gateway To Bahrain

　　While some sites in Bahrain have succumbed to the passage of time, others have been meticulously preserved and restored. Bab Al Bahrain, or the "Gateway to Bahrain," was once a bustling trading port by the sea. Though now surrounded by reclaimed land, it still serves as the entrance to the vibrant Manama Souq.

　　Similarly, the Ahmed Al Fateh Grand Mosque, inaugurated in 1988 and spanning 6,500 sqm in the heart of Juffair, is a striking symbol of global influences. Its floors are laid with Italian marble, while an Irish-made carpet stretches across its expanse. The 40m-high fibreglass dome features 12 Iranian stained-glass windows inscribed with the name of Allah, beneath which hangs a glittering Austrian chandelier. Handblown French glass lamps illuminate the walls, casting a soft glow over visitors.

　　Clerics warmly welcome non-Muslim tourists for guided tours, offering insights into Islamic teachings. Engaging in a discussion with one cleric about modern interpretations of the Quran, I am pleasantly surprised by his liberal perspective.

　　After indulging in traditional meals at old restaurants, we treat ourselves to a lavish Asian feast at ART Rotana on Amwaj Islands. An assortment of sushi is complemented by Japanese shochu, elegantly served in traditional cups.

　　As the world gradually shifts away from oil dependency, Bahrain is placing greater emphasis on tourism. Peter Cook, CEO of @Bahrain, shares that the majority of the kingdom’s visitors come from GCC countries. For couples from neighbouring Saudi Arabia—where strict laws and customs prevail—Bahrain offers a liberating escape.

　　Thanks to its centuries-old role as a trade hub, Bahrain has maintained a relatively liberal outlook despite cultural influences from Riyadh. The city’s landscape is dotted with clubs and bars, atheism is not unheard of, and shopping malls display abayas, hijabs, and short skirts side by side, reflecting the country’s unique blend of tradition and modernity.

　　Renewed Tourism Focus

　　There is also a renewed effort to attract tourists from around the world, including India. In fact, Bahrain’s India office, which is hosting us, is just seven months old. While Emirates like Dubai were early movers in the tourism sector, giving them a head start in infrastructure and brand building, Bahrain offers something different—thousands of years of captivating history.

　　That’s not to say it lacks modern attractions. Since 2004, Bahrain has been home to the spectacular Formula One Bahrain Grand Prix. The Bahrain International Circuit (BIC) in Sakhir, with its five track layouts and dedicated drag strip, hosts a variety of motorsport events year-round, including open track days, drag and drift nights, circuit tours, and go-karting. For off-road enthusiasts, there’s a challenging experience featuring 32 obstacles tackled in Land Rovers.

　　The first corner of the iconic F1 track is named after the legendary Michael Schumacher, who won the inaugural Bahrain Grand Prix. Keen to honour my childhood racing hero, I try my hand at competitive go-karting. I finish third on the leaderboard—not bad for a rookie.

　　Just south of the Bahrain International Circuit lies another modern marvel—Gravity Indoor Skydiving. For someone plagued with acrophobia, jumping out of an airplane is out of the question. This facility, however, offers the thrill of skydiving without the fear of plummeting to the ground.

　　After a 15-minute safety briefing, I step into a 12-metre-high wind tunnel made of tempered glass. A controller adjusts the wind speed to keep me afloat, while an instructor ensures I “fly” at high speeds and maintain the correct position. As I climb out of my safety gear after two exhilarating “flights,” I notice a group of abaya-clad girls heading to the briefing room, ready for their turn in the tunnel.

　　Precious Camels

　　The Bahraini people may have discovered flight in glass tunnels, but they haven't forgotten their camels. A visit to a camel farm introduces me to white, dark, and cream-coloured camels, along with several adorable calves. Once the revered ship of the desert, the camel today finds purpose in pageants and milk production.

　　Still in my time-travelling Bedouin mode, I make my way to Al Jasra House. Built in 1907 using local materials, this is the birthplace of the late Emir Sheikh Isa bin Salman Al Khalifa. Now preserved as a heritage site, it offers a glimpse into Bahrain’s past—featuring a room where dates were piled in palm-woven baskets to extract their juice, a kitchen with vintage utensils, and a men’s majlis (lounge) where guests would once gather. Nearby, the Al Jasra Handicrafts Centre keeps traditional arts alive. Here, artisans demonstrate their skills in basket weaving, pottery, and miniature shipbuilding, crafting pieces that tourists can take home as souvenirs.

　　Being an island nation, Bahrain isn’t short of beach options either. One of the most popular getaways is Al Dar Island. A 10-minute drive from Manama to Sitra Fishing Port, followed by a brief sea taxi ride, brings me to this tranquil escape. Excursions like dolphin watching and fishing trips are available, but most visitors come simply to bask in the pristine blue waters.

　　We rent a cabana and exchange life stories. Zahra, an ardent feminist, reminisces about how Jane Eyre shaped her perspective during university. “The boys in the literature class found the book hard to swallow,” she chuckles, as I take in the scene—bikinis and burkinis side by side on the shore. In Bahrain, the old and the new don’t clash; they meet like long-lost friends, coexisting in harmony.

　　The Information

　　Getting There

　　Bahrain International Airport is well-connected, with daily flights from New Delhi operated by multiple international carriers, including Gulf Air and Etihad Airways. Travellers can apply for a one-month e-visa at evisa.gov.bh for BHD 29.

　　Disclaimer: This story has been republished for reading purposes