Escaping the frenetic energy of Goa, the party capital of India, I yearned for a deeper connection and a more authentic travel experience. Little did I know that a hidden gem awaited just a short drive away—Belagavi. Nestled in the northernmost tip of Karnataka, on the foothills of the Sahyadri range, this ancient town promised an adventure beyond the usual beach escapades. With a history dating back centuries, Belagavi, once known as Venugrama, has witnessed the rise and fall of various dynasties, from the Rattas to the Adil Shahis. This rich historical past, most notably exemplified by the majestic forts and the architecturally stunning religious shrines, piqued my curiosity, promising a journey through time interwoven with exploring the city's vibrant present.
My exploration of Belagavi began with a journey through time at the majestic Belgaum Fort. Built in the 12th century by the Ratta Dynasty, this imposing structure has witnessed centuries of triumphs and tribulations, its stone walls echoing the footsteps of countless rulers and conquerors. The fort's significance extends beyond its military history, as it also held Mahatma Gandhi within its confines during British rule.
The fort is a fascinating blend of architectural styles, a testament to the various dynasties that have controlled the region, as seen in the varied religious monuments inside the fort complex. The Kamal Basadi and Chikki Basadi, two Jain temples showcasing the intricate carvings of Chalukyan architecture, stand as silent witnesses to the city's rich past. At the fort's entrance, Hindu shrines dedicated to Lord Ganesha and the fierce Goddess Durga, the protector of warfare, stand guard. In the heart of the fort, the Jamia Masjid and Safa Masjid, with their exquisite inscriptions on the pillars and intricate calligraphy, offer a glimpse into the Muslim rule of the fort.
It took me several hours to fully absorb the history and grandeur of the Belgaum Fort. Walking through its imposing ramparts, I felt a profound connection to the past, marvelling at the resilience of this ancient structure and the stories it silently held within its walls.
If you have time, visit the Yellur Fort, too. Located about 15 km from the city, perched atop a picturesque hillock, this ancient fortress served as a strategic outpost of the Belgaum Fort. For all the gram lovers, the fort offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
After a history lesson, it was time for retail therapy and exploring the city's lively bazaars. Khade Bazaar, the heart of Belagavi's commercial district, was a sensory overload. This bustling market was a treasure trove of alluring textiles, traditional handicrafts, and local spices. I lost myself in the maze of narrow lanes, where I stumbled upon everything from colourful sarees and intricate silver jewellery to handwoven bags and aromatic herbs. The air was thick with freshly ground spices' aroma and vendors' lively chatter.
A short distance away, I discovered Ramdev Galli, a charming market renowned for its exquisite handloom fabrics, particularly the famous Belagavi cotton. I spent hours browsing the shops, admiring the intricate weaves and colours. Bargaining with the friendly vendors was an essential part of the experience, and I managed to snag some beautiful souvenirs to take home.
My second day in Belagavi was all about immersing myself in the natural beauty surrounding this charming town. After an hour's drive, I reached Gokak Falls, and my jaw dropped. This cascading waterfall plunges dramatically into a 170-meter-deep gorge, almost mimicking the grandeur of Niagara Falls. The visual spectacle was breathtaking–the water's sheer force and thriving green foliage created a truly rejuvenating experience. One of the most thrilling experiences was walking across the 200-meter-long bridge, perched about 14 meters above the bedrock. The view from the bridge was simply awe-inspiring.
Gokak Falls holds a special place in Indian history, too, as the site of the first hydroelectric power plant in the country, dating back to 1887. The banks of the falls are adorned with captivating Chalukyan-era monuments, offering a glimpse into 6th-century architectural brilliance. The Mahalingeshwara Temple, an 11th-century Shiva temple, stands majestically on the riverfront, its towering structure adorned with intricate carvings.
Beyond Gokak Falls, I also ventured to Godchinamalaki Falls, a scenic waterfall about 15 kilometres away. It is ideal for picnics and treks. The best time to witness the full fury of these falls is soon after the monsoon season when the water flow is at its peak.
An exquisite stay at Regenta Resort elevated my Belagavi sojourn. Nestled amidst the picturesque Western Ghats, just off the Goa-Belgaum highway, this tranquil refuge offered a welcome escape from the city bustle. A selection of well-appointed rooms and cosy cottages provided a beautiful abode where I could unwind. The panoramic views, the soothing symphony of bird songs, and the lush greenery surrounding the property created a truly immersive experience. Priced upwards of Rs 6,000 per night, including breakfast, this luxurious retreat added a touch of indulgence to my Belagavi holiday.
A bittersweet feeling washed over me as my two-day trip drew to a close. I'd fallen for Belagavi's charm. From wandering through the ancient forts to getting lost in the colourful markets, every moment felt special, making it an unforgettable experience.
From November to March, Belagavi experiences winters with plenty of sunshine, making it an excellent time for sightseeing and outdoor adventures. For those who love the monsoon, July to September offers a perfect setting to soak in the season's romance.
Belagavi is well-connected by air, train, and road. The nearest airport, Belagavi Airport, is 29 km away, while Rani Channamma Railway Station is 15 km away. Taxis can be hired from Goa, approximately 120 km away, for those travelling by road.
Head to Niyaaz Biryani for its delectable biryanis and kebab platters, including the Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani, a local favourite. Gavkari is the go-to place for mouthwatering fish and mutton thalis, while Purohit Sweets is a must-visit to savour Kunda, Belagavi's signature sweet.