Amber Palace in Jaipur is all about romance with its ornate Ganesh pol, grand Diwan-i-Khas, pretty Sheesh Mahal, and beautifully laid-out Kesar Kyari garden, but Jaigarh Fort that austere sentinel perched atop the Cheel Ka Teela promontory is what I have always found more awe-inspiring; its lofty ramparts and steep walls keeping vigil over the city of Jaipur for centuries.
The imposing fort recently hosted the Jaigarh Heritage Festival 2024 on December 28 and 29. Presented by The Vedanta Group in collaboration with Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh Singh of Jaipur, the event was produced by Teamwork Arts, which also hosts the popular Jaipur Literature Festival every year.
An erstwhile foundry that houses the Jaivana, the world's largest cannon, may seem an unlikely spot for an art and culture festival, but as the festival unfolded, it was clear that there could have been no better or more atmospheric setting for the event.
The festival's theme was #ArtInEveryHeart, and the spacious environs of the fort and its stark beauty beautifully complemented the rousing performances of the many artists gathered there. From the stirring folk strains of the Jaisalmer Boys to the sonorous solemnity of Dagar Vani Dhrupad by Niloy Ahsan Zulkernaeen to the high energy of Kailash Kher to the drumbeats of percussion ensemble TĀL FRY to the powerful vocals of Malini Awasthi, the ancient hills came alive with performances that carry the very essence of India's soul.
Jaipur in December is usually bright and sunny, with blue skies that offer respite from Delhi's unmitigated grey. However, when I arrived on December 27, I carried the gloom of the Capital city on its wettest day of the season. It was all howling winds and intermittent rains, even in the Pink City, but Jaipur is beautiful even in the rain.
That night, dinner was at the Baradari, a lovely restaurant and bar at the City Palace, Jaipur. It was freezing, but the rain had stopped, and we ate a wonderful meal of Lal Maas and Missi roti under a starry sky in the shadow of the glimmering Chandra Mahal, the official residence of the Jaipur royal family.
At the inauguration of the Jaigarh Heritage Festival the next day, heralded by the sounds of the Nagada played by Nathulal Solanki and his band, the Maharaja spoke about how Jaigarh is a proud symbol of the Dhundhar and Jaipur, embodying centuries of history and heritage. "This festival celebrates not just our built heritage but also the spirit of Rajasthan—its art, craft, music, and stories," he said, addressing the gathering of distinguished guests.
An accomplished Polo player and a popular social media figure with half a million followers on Instagram (@pachojaipur), the head of the royal family of Jaipur has been actively restoring, reviving, and championing Jaipur's storied cultural heritage.
"We want the people of Rajasthan, the people of Jaipur, and the people of India to take pride in this culture. It is the most beautiful culture in the world, and there are many different elements of it that we should be proud of. We aim to showcase some of them through the Jaigarh Heritage Festival, presented against the backdrop of this magnificent fort. We hope this festival grows, connects people from around the country and the world, and inspires artists to continue practising their art knowing there is a platform to showcase it," he told Outlook Traveller at the event.
With Jaipur already being quite the tourist magnet, the royal scion believes art and culture festivals and immersive experiences are a good way to keep drawing travellers back to the Pink City.
"Today's travellers are educated and sophisticated. They have probably been to Rajasthan several times, perhaps for a wedding, a birthday, or sightseeing. But the question is how we can bring them back. I believe experience-led tourism will make them return. And the kind of experience we provide at the Jaigarh Heritage Festival is something they will not get anywhere else in the world," said the royal.
Besides the big names, the festival's cultural line-up included traditional ballads and storytelling by Bhopa-Bhopi, Rajasthani folk music by Bhutte Khan and the Manganiyars, mythological dance-drama Gavri from Mewar, a percussion recital on the pakhawaj by Aishvary Arya, a Uthori Street Play.
At the festival, Singh was accompanied by his sister, Princess Gauravi Kumari of Jaipur. While he mingled with the artists and artisans, tried his hand at block printing and churned ghee at the Nand Ghar Experiential Centre, which was offering hands-on workshops in block printing, diya painting, henna art, and bilona chhaas making, Gauravi Kumari interacted closely with the women artisans working under the aegis of the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation, a cause close to her heart. The foundation works with the local women, helping revive traditional crafts while empowering them.
I stopped to observe a woman engrossed in gota patti embroidery, while another beamed proudly at her collection of lac bangles. I bought a few embroidered and appliqued cloth key chains for friends and family and a lovely Jaipur Pottery plate to place in my living room, a reminder of the first edition of the Jaigarh Heritage Festival.
"Jaigarh stands as a powerful testament to Rajasthan's enduring heritage, where art and history merge seamlessly to celebrate tangible and intangible legacies. Teamwork Arts proudly transformed this historic landmark into a living canvas of creativity, innovation, and cultural expression," said Sanjoy K. Roy, Managing Director, Teamwork Arts. "The idea was to look at different aspects of built heritage and how to use the arts to create value. People tend to forget the rich history of places like this. Jaigarh is where the garrison used to sit; it housed the foundry and was extremely important politically and strategically. Now that it is open to the public, we are trying to give people a sense of its history through this festival. Plus, with the high footfall this monument attracts, it will also benefit the local gig economy. With its widespread appeal, this festival will become much bigger in future.