For many Punjabis and Sikhs, Amritsar is synonymous with the Golden Temple. Additionally, no trip to the city is complete without the legendary kulchas, poori-chhole and Amritsari fish.
I have always found peace at the Golden Temple, which I believe is literally an oasis of calm within the chaos of the city. I feel blessed to have visited this holy city at least once a year over the last decade (in 2019, I was lucky to come here thrice in the same year!) However, the recently concluded Sacred Amritsar Festival promised to offer something beyond my usual set itinerary. I am happy to report that it not only lived up to my expectations but exceeded them. It is easy to lose oneself in the ragas, thumris, ghazals and forget the looming deadlines and household chores, if only for a weekend. The immersive experiences, guided walks, thought-provoking conversations, and especially the well-curated musical performances every morning and evening left me feeling rejuvenated and mentally refreshed.
This was the third edition of The Sacred Amritsar, presented by Sleepwell and Teamwork Arts. Teamwork Arts is the company behind iconic festivals such as the Jaipur Literature Festival (held in Jaipur, New York, London, Houston, Seattle, Doha, Toronto, Adelaide, Maldives and many other places), Mahindra Kabira Festival held in Varanasi, Sikkim Arts & Literature Festival, Jaigarh Heritage and Music Festival and many more. “The Sacred Amritsar is a celebration of poetry’s powerful ability to connect us all. Celebrated in Punjab’s ‘Jewel in the Crown,’ the festival brings together some of the finest performers, poets, and thinkers in thoughtfully curated segments. It is a soulful experience that nourishes the mind, body, and spirit while honouring the rich and diverse history of the city,” stated Sanjoy K. Roy, managing director of Teamwork Arts.
There’s something about music that touches you beyond words. While I appreciate various forms of music, Indian classical music is a relatively new exploration for me. The Sacred Amritsar provided a great platform for me to discover new artists—I must clarify here that these artists are new to me, but they come from rich backgrounds, strong lineages and years dedicated to honing their craft. A few performances truly stood out for me.
The musical set Echoes of Banaras, presented by Swaransh Mishra, a sixth-generation vocalist of the Banaras Gharana turned out to be the perfect start to an exciting day. While his soulful ragas were ideal for the morning hours, his energetic and rhythmic rendition of ‘Aghori Chalisa’ left me with goosebumps. This was followed by an incredible tribute to Kumar Gandharva by his daughter, the acclaimed classical vocalist Kalapini Komkali, with the venue, Sarovar Premiere, reverberating with her powerful, melodious voice.
The beautifully lit historic Gobindgarh Fort provided a wonderful backdrop for evening performances. Storyteller Laksh Maheshwari took us back in time as he narrated tales from the lives of Punjabi and Hindi poet and novelist Amrita Pritam, poet and lyricist par excellence Sahir Ludhianvi, and painter Imroz. Pritam and Ludhianvi’s love for each other is legendary, and it was indeed magical as Laksh wove a parallel world in which Ludhianvi supposedly wrote the lyrics for iconic songs like, “Main Pal Do Pal Ka Shayar Hoon," "Jo Wada Kiya Woh Nibhana Padega," "Udein Jab Jab Zulfein Teri," and many more. This fabulous performance combined the art of storytelling along with classic songs from Hindi films, taking us on a charming and nostalgic journey. On the second evening of the festival, Dastan-e-Akhtari was an apt ode to The Tale of Begum Akhtar by Padma Shri Malini Awasthi, accompanied by narration from poet Yatindra Mishra.
Once again, Yatindra Mishra’s evocative storytelling offered the perfect background for Begam Akhtar’s iconic ghazals and thumris. Both evenings ended on a high note, with the audiences clapping and dancing to the high-energy music of Padma Shri Anwar Khan Manganiyar and his troupe, who performed their signature Rajasthani folk music on day one, and the neo-folk band Kabir Cafe through their reinterpretation of the poetry of Saint Kabir with a fusion of rock, reggae, pop, and Carnatic music as the grand finale.
Even though I have done guided tours of the Partition Museum, Jallianwalla Bagh and Gobindgarh Fort, there was still a lot to discover about the city. Our guide, Tarundeep Singh, took us through the storied streets of Amritsar, offering glimpses of the city’s diverse past through its sacred gurudwaras, historic katras, old havelis, and more. While a trip to the Golden Temple is a must for me every time I visit Amritsar, this time, I was happy to see other gurudwaras as well.
Santokhsar Sahib is said to have the oldest of the five sarovars in Amritsar. It is a very peaceful spot within walking distance of the Partition Museum, and I would highly recommend spending some time here on your next visit. Our guide also highlighted that there are 53 mosques within the walled city of Amritsar. Even though there have been occasional differences amongst various religious groups, not one place of worship was destroyed at any point. In fact, to date, the temple's bell, gurbani and azaan resound simultaneously.
Besides being a hub of religion and culture, Amritsar has seen its fair share of violence too; its history coexists with the beauty. The Sacred Amritsar festival also ensured that we don’t forget this poignant fact. Hence, former ambassadors and renowned authors Navtej Sarna and Navdeep Suri spoke about "Punjab’s Crimson Spring: From Kingdom to Massacre" in the festival's conversation segment. Acclaimed author and oral historian Aanchal Malhotra joined Sanjoy K Roy for "The Inheritance of Partition," an insightful session reflecting on the personal and historical narratives woven with the Partition of 1947.
Overall, The Sacred Amritsar Festival was an inspiring experience that shouldn't be missed and was surely a great way to meet like-minded people who appreciate the arts and culture.