Picture this: Its one of those nights when the moon rises and everyone says, wow! because even though weve all seen it countless times before, that night it just managed to look super, mega, cartoonishly huge. I had never seen a moon that big before as it rises.

　　The sun was setting exactly opposite to the moonrise, reflecting orange and purple across the calm waters of Lake Superior, looking like some kind of psychedelic quicksilver that went from the purple and pink of the sun to the blue and white of the moon.

　　It was hard to know which direction to look in. Thats the kind of night it was.

　　Dreamy The waters certainly not always this calm, warned Captain Jen Dale, and I believed her, because how else would these orange caves of all shapes and sizes exist without the waves that carve them?

　　These are the sea caves of the Apostle Islands in Wisconsin and they really are incredible in person.

　　Theyre unique to the area thanks to the strand of iron-rich sandstone that comprises the bottom layer of the Apostle Islands, also known as the Devil’s Island Formation, and displayed in the photos you see here. It was deposited approximately one billion years ago.

　　Cave exploration on Devils Island Deglaciation and erosion of the thin layers of sand created the sea caves found on the cliff faces. The resulting sight is layers of rock that have been chipped away at to form, in some cases, huge caves and diamond-like formations in the rock.

　　Youre as into rocks as I am, right?

　　The best kind of diamonds The islands were my main draw for this visit. Id seen photos on Instagram, (which drives more and more of my travel choices these days, honestly!), and after seeing them, knew that I just had to photograph those caves myself.

　　Its not just about the caves, though. Theres something special about Lake Superior, too. Though calm in that moment, I understood it the way I do the ocean ready to turn to waves and wind at any moment, just not salty kind.

　　All hands on deck By surface area, Lake Superior is the world’s largest freshwater lake and the third largest by volume. It actually contains 10% of the world’s surface fresh water, so it felt like an ocean!

　　Its also incredibly clean, boasting the title of cleanest of the Great Lakes (hopefully it stays that way!).

　　Playing on Madeline Island Id wanted to see the caves, that was for sure, but I didnt realize that Id like the town of Bayfield, the jumping off point for the Apostle Islands, so much too.

　　Whilst flipping through mostly country and Christian rock radio stations while driving through the countryside from where my plane landed in Ironwood, Michigan to Bayfield, Wisconsin, I readied myself for some serious small-town in the middle of America vibes.

　　Except thats not what happened.

　　I arrived in one of the loveliest, quaintest, most artist-friendly towns Ive had the pleasure of visiting. This was my first time in the Midwest and I came to find that the stereotype about the incredible friendliness of the locals is true, as well.

　　Playing in the caves while sailing the islands Laying in the hammock that night on the boat and looking up at the stars I couldnt believe what I had stumbled upon. How was it that caves this big and over a lake that clear and lovely didnt have tons of people visiting them?

　　Ive seen other caves over water just once before (the Marble Caves in Chile) and while beautiful, they werent nearly as big nor extensive as these.

　　On a calm day In the summertime boating around them is a great way to enjoy them. You can charter your own private boat with a captain and open itinerary (Contact Dreamcatcher Sailing to book. It includes two nights of accommodation on the boat and isnt too expensive when split amongst a group!), which is how I got out to the Devils island to see the most impressive caves.

　　My happy place Its also possible to kayak to the caves on the mainland just a short drive away from Bayfield. I chose a full day of kayaking as well as the sailing, and saw giant cracks in the rock as well:

　　so many cool kayaking spots! And in the winter, the caves actually freeze over and the kayaking route turns into a hike.

　　Great, and now I need to go back in the winter, and probably the fall when the leaves change, too.

　　Stockton Island Did I forget to mention the camping? It was lovely, too.

　　I had an entire campsite all to myself, hardly seeing anyone else throughout the day (by choice, as I wanted to be far down on the coast). I made fire from kindling on the ground, made some hobo stew, and watched as a storm thundered through then left a dazzling red sunset in its wake.

　　Wow It had me wondering if sunsets are just a  there, along with those amazing caves and that gorgeous lake.

　　It may have been my first time to the Midwest, but with the impression it made, sailing the Apostle Islands has awakened in me a desire for a lot more America appreciation in my future.

　　Pin me! Do it yourself:

　　Getting there: Fly into Ironwood or Duluth via Chicago and Air Choice One flights. Take a rental car (I used Reds in Ironwood), the 1.5 hour drive to Bayfield. Stay The Andrew Tate Condominiums are swanky and big if you want a full apartment Harbor Hill House if youre solo or want to stay at a BB. Loved the owners here! On board the Dreamcatcher Take the Apostle Islands Cruises shuttle to Stockton Island or the Madeline Island Ferry over to Madeline Island and camp Eat (All of these restaurants are on Rittenhouse Ave., the main street in town) Fat Radish is excellent for healthier, local food Ethels at 250 has great Italian Drink Visit Toms Burned Down Cafe on Madeline Island, just a short ferry ride over from Bayfield. Its super funky! Do Kayak with Living Adventure Sail with Dreamcatcher Sailing Visit the orchards and pick fruit Camp and hike!