The plane glided overhead, me eagerly watching the landscape below as we made for Cabo, cerulean lagoon after rolling mountains populating the landscape of the peninsula.

　　One could see the entire width of Baja from the window seat. The mountains made way for washes, carved by water that used to roam through it in abundance, now literal wrinkles in time for wild mile after wild mile of that arid desert. Home to cacti, low bushes, and a surprising abundance of life both in the mountains and the sea, I was witnessing the rugged beauty of Baja California Sur unfold.

　　I had two weeks ahead of me to road trip through Baja California Sur in Mexico, beginning in San Jose del Cabo. Since I didnt get to head north this time around, I have invited Sally from Sally Sees, who visited most of the beautiful spots that I couldnt make it to on this trip to share her experience. Heres an epic Baja Sur itinerary for you:

　　Table of Contents

　　Toggle 1. Todos Santos2. La Paz3. Magdalena Bay4. Mulege5. Loreto6. La Ventana7. Santiago8. San Jose Del CaboRoad trip itineraryRenting a car at the airport in San Jose Del CaboRenting or returning a car in Loreto 1. Todos Santos

　　Upon landing in SJD, G and I picked up the rental car (more on avoiding scams later in this post) and immediately made our way for dreamy Todos Santos.

　　Translating to ‘all saints,’ — which is a nice name, no? — Todos Santos is a designated pueblo magico, or ‘magic town’ in Baja. With its sweeping views of the Pacific and bird’s eye views of whales breaching on their way south, this artsy little town fits its designation.

　　To be honest I just chilled the F out in Todos Santos. The beach isn’t swimmable, due to big waves and rocks, but this is something you get used to in Baja. Book a place with a view and a pool and you’re set (I loved this one!).

　　Things to do in Todos Santos:

　　Hike the Sugar Port Trail: Get gorgeous views on this 2-mile hike along the coastline. Check the starting point here. 4×4: Want to access the wild side? The mountains are right there, too, and lots of fun 4×4 roading that those terrible rental cars can’t do for you! Rent in town or take a Jeep tour and let someone show you the best spots. Surf: Just south you’ll find a surfing wave if you’re into it, or consider hiking to palm beach for a lovely beach day. Where to Eat in Todos Santos:

　　Seafood: Santos Pecados Restaurant Bar, Todos Santos not only has amazing service, but amazing seafood! The tequila fish is to die for (and doesn’t taste like tequila, don’t worry). Brunch: The vibe is on point at La Esquina Todos Santos. It’s mostly outdoors, open-air and has veggie and healthy options as well as great breakfast. There’s a farmer’s market on Sunday, too! Tacos: Tacos El Poblano in the evening for cheap al pastor and Tacos George’s for fish tacos during the day. They’re right next to each other with opposite hours. Dessert: Baja Tasty, near Santos Pecados, has amazing ice cream! Where to Stay in Todos Santos: The pool photo featured above was at Los Colibris Casitas, a gorgeous boutique hotel with plenty of privacy and awesome views. I loved the King Suite!

　　2. La Paz

　　La Paz, meaning ‘the peace’ — also a nice name, right? — is the best jumping off point for the gorgeous beach pictured above and whale shark swims.

　　La Paz is certainly bigger than Todos Santos, and I recommend you follow all traffic rules perfectly because the police are out in full force, but once in town you’ll see why people love La Paz. The Sea of Cortez is beautiful and it’s perfectly positioned for amazing sunsets.

　　Things to do in La Paz:

　　The Sea of Cortez is brimming with life, and depending on the season, you can swim with all kinds of amazing things out there. Keep in mind for Espiritu Santo you’ll be required to wear a life jacket, which some people won’t mind and others (like me) will mind a lot!

　　Swim with Whale Sharks: La Paz’s whale-shark season runs annually from October to May. Unlike in Cancun, you don’t have to wear a life jacket in the water if you’re wearing a wetsuit. It’s tightly regulated, and the only way to see them is via boat tour. It was too windy when we were there to go, but Alonso tours were so responsive, upfront, and helpful and friends of mine who went with them later loved them. If you prefer to book in English, you can do so here. (BTW both are much cheaper than some of the bigger companies, and both are good!) Visit Isla Espiritu Santo: Swim with sea lions in beautiful bays on this trip. When I saw this island from the plane, I was dying to visit, but life jackets are required even in the water. I understand it’s a regulation, but that would ruin it for me. If that wouldn’t bother you, sign up to do it here. I’ve heard great things, and sea lions are so interactive! Visit Balandra Beach: You’ll need a vehicle for this one, or a taxi. Balandra has strict capacity limits and usually operates in two time slots, morning and afternoon. Check with your accommodation for the latest restrictions as they change frequently. Or, take a boat or jetski over from a neighboring beach. We found a tour guide on Pichilingue who just added us to his boat and dropped us off, then picked us back up five hours later for 500 MXN total for two people. Ask around, haggle, and find yourself a private stretch of sand – there’s a lot of it, see below:

　　What to Eat in La Paz: Bakery and BBQ: Vrentino Restaurant has delicious pies and cakes and their grilled fish and pulled pork were on point! Where to Stay in La Paz: Since we splurged a bit on other spots, we went budget in La Paz at Araiza Palmira, which was fine, especially for the price, but had I known strong winds would have meant we’d spend a lot more time inside, I would have booked Hotel Catedral with that awesome rooftop instead.

　　3. Magdalena Bay

　　Single-handedly the most amazing thing I have ever done in my life was to see the gray whales in Magdalena Bay.

　　Each year between January – March, gray whales migrate from the cool waters of Alaska to the warm, sheltered lagoons off the Pacific Coast of Baja to mate and give birth.

　　But something really special and unusual happens down here. The gray whales in Baja are friendly and interactive.

　　They approach boats, stick their heads out of the water to look at you (spy-hopping) and welcome pats and kisses. No one really knows why, but the experience is completely ethical. The whales are free to move as they please, and if you don’t give them the attention they want, they will find another boat that will!

　　Things to do in Magdalena Bay

　　Gray whale watching: It’s all about the whales! To see them, you will head into the bay on a (skiff-style boat) with a local captain. It’s a game of patience waiting to find whales, and sometimes they won’t be interested in playing or interacting. We saw lots of whales from a distance on our first day, but it was our second day that we had some amazing encounters with a mamma who spent hours with our boat. Snorkeling the sardine run: Magdalena Bay is still worth visiting if you can’t make it for the whale season. Between October – December each year there is a sardine run, which draws in predators like marlins, sea lions, dolphins and sharks that you can snorkel, free dive or dive with. Where to Eat and Stay in Magdalena Bay

　　We opted for a package with Magdalena Bay Whales, one of the local tour companies. We glamped for two nights on an island in Magdalena Bay and had all our meals home cooked for us. It was one of the greatest travel experiences we have ever had, and we can’t recommend this enough!

　　4. Mulege

　　As soon as I saw the iconic photo of Mulege, with the river snaking through a grove of palm trees and arid mountains rising up in the background, I knew I had to visit.

　　Mulege is a very small town known as ‘the oasis town’, for its large freshwater source in the middle of the desert, the Rio Mulege (Mulege River).

　　A historic Jesuit mission, some of the best beaches in Baja and a picturesque oasis, there is enough in Mulege to see and do. But it’s also the perfect place to slow down, relax and take it easy.

　　Things to do in Mulege

　　Visit the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé: A Jesuit mission that was built here for its freshwater source. The main drawcard of the mission is the vantage point to see the river and the palm grove below. See the oasis in the desert: It is such a rare sight in Baja to see fresh water and lush greenery, the Rio Mulege really is an amazing spectacle. We wandered along the banks of the river near town, but the best view was from the mission. The incredible beaches of Bahia Concepcion: Between Loreto and Mulege is this enclosed bay, with dozens of empty beaches. Some of the best in Baja, the water is bright blue, calm and so scenic with tiny offshore islands and mountains everywhere you look. Where to Eat in Mulege Beer and bar snacks: Mulege Brewing Company is the main watering hole in Mulege, with craft beers on tap, pizzas and other bar snacks. Street food stalls: For some cheap local tacos, burritos and aguas frescas, head to Mulege’s main plaza Jardin Corona and see what stalls are open. Mexican fare: Try Restaurant Bar Los Equipales for a typical Mexican restaurant with colourful tablecloths, all the usual suspects on the menu and friendly service. Where to Stay in Mulege In town: There is nothing fancy in Mulege. Accommodation is typically in self-contained casita-style rooms. Clementine’s is the best option. On the beach: There are some really unique stays along the beach in Bahia Concepcion. Sleep on a sailboat in the bay or go glamping. 5. Loreto

　　Loreto exceeded all our expectations and turned out to be our favourite destination in Baja. We think it is completely underrated! There are some retired snowbirds who come down for the winter, but you avoid the crowds and craziness of Cabo, with a real laidback Baja vibe.

　　Loreto is the second of just two in Baja Sur, and it totally deserves its title. It’s a small, historic town with charming plazas, a waterfront Malecon and so many outdoor adventures on sea and land.

　　Things to do in Loreto

　　Explore the historic centro: Home to the first Jesuit mission in Baja, tree-lined pedestrian streets, cafes in the plaza and a waterfront Malecon boardwalk, we wandered aimlessly for hours. Hike Tabor Canyon: A stunning hike into a desert canyon, requiring some rock scrambling and a bit of intense climbing but we loved it. You can go solo (follow this trail) or take a local guide. Visit Isla Coronado: One of five islands in the Loreto Bay National Park, Coronado has the best beaches in Loreto. We took a boat tour out to the island, spotting dolphins, sea lions and blue-footed boobie birds on the way. Get underwater in the Sea of Cortez: Jacques Cousteau did not call this the aquarium of the world for nothing! Snorkel, free dive or scuba dive to discover sea lions, dolphins, whales, rays, turtles and other marine life. Blue Nation Baja is a great dive shop. Go blue whale watching: Witnessing the biggest animal in the world up close was an incredible experience. From February – March blue whales hang out in the Bay of Loreto. We learnt so much from the marine biologist on our tour with Loreto Sea Land. Visit the San Javier Mission: The one-hour drive into the desert was so scenic. Another Jesuit mission, built in the middle of nowhere because there was a freshwater source there. The colonial-style building in the desert landscape was so unique. Drive your rental car or take a tour. Where to Eat in Loreto Tacos: El Rey del Taco is a Loreto institution with the best Baja-style fish tacos. Asadero Súper Burro is the go-to for meat tacos, with juicy arrachera and asado. Seafood: El Caloron serves up all kinds of seafood, overlooking the waterfront on the Malecon. Hotel Oasis does a clam bake buffet on the beach every Saturday night. Coffee: La Route café in the plaza was some of the nicest coffee we had in Baja. Desserts: La Creperia for amazing crepes with all kinds of toppings. Try a traditional southern Mexican from Mare Lindo food truck (check their Facebook for their current location). Where to Stay in Loreto

　　Top end: There are some lovely boutique hotels in Loreto. Many resorts are out of town, but it’s worth staying in the heart of the action. Try Posada Las Flores or La Mision Loreto. Budget-friendly: There are some cute apartments on Airbnb for something private but affordable. We stayed in this apartment and it was the perfect location. 6. La Ventana

　　La Ventana is a favorite for kite boarders and lovers of the ocean. I heard it’s so-named for the window of time in the morning before the winds pick up and create the perfect conditions for kiters.

　　There was a weeklong wind storm that foiled most of my plans for the Sea of Cortez and Isla Cerralvo, which doesn’t have the life jacket requirement.

　　Though I didn’t see as much as I’d hoped, we nearly managed to get in with a HUGE pod of dolphins and we swam with sea lions as well. You can see some of it in the video below:

　　When the conditions are better, I’ve seen amazing videos with Orcas, Sperm Whales, and big fish. It’s enough to make me want to try again!

　　Things to do in La Ventana:

　　Hey buddy! Snorkel and freedive: Isla Cerralvo is typically pretty good for swimming with sea lions and having better clarity than other areas closer to shore for snorkeling. Again, I got unlucky when I went, but we still swam with a few of these guys. It’s best to book this directly with a boat captain, as hotels will double the price. Check out my where to stay section for help on getting a cheaper (and just as good) boat. Kite Board: La Ventana is famous as a kiting spot. Don’t know how? No worries, take some lessons from Girl on a Board. Mountain Bike: This isn’t so much my sport, but if you’re into it, there are many trails through the mountains that frame La Ventana. Check out the hot springs: They’re right on the beach! Find them here. Be careful, some of the areas are suuuuper hot! What to Eat in La Ventana: Tacos: The best tacos I had in Baja Sur were right here. It’s just a little yellow stand with a friendly female owner and 20-pesos taco heaven. Seafood: Mariscos El Cone has yummy grilled fish and the portions are huge! Pizza: If you want some pasta or pizza, San Siro – Risto.Pizza.Bar does it well! Where to Stay in La Ventana: I stayed at an Airbnb (pictured above) that was a little off the beaten path but beautiful and affordable. I loved the landscaping, the remoteness, the sunrise and sunset views, and the cool way it was constructed into little pods! Ask the host to help you book a boat excursion directly with a captain.

　　7. Santiago

　　This desert oasis in the interior of Baja Sur was magical, and I highly recommend checking out the hot springs and the Canon de la Zorra. Consider spending the night, as well!

　　It’s a dirt road for much of the drive out of Santiago, but it was passable in our chevy sedan rental. I know things can change after the rain, so reconsider this trip if it’s been pouring lately.

　　Things to do in Santiago:

　　Sol De Mayo: The waterfall pictured above is truly magical. The water is crisp, there are several crystal clear pools of water, and bonus, there are little fish in there who will nibble your feet – natural fish spa! Entrance is 150 mxn per person via the Rancho Ecologico Sol De Mayo, which I recommend staying at, too! Santa Rita Hot Spring: There are two hot springs in the area, but this is the prettier of the two. Access it via San Jorge. It’s easy to hit both the waterfall and the hot spring in an afternoon! Entrance is 150 mxn per person, and you can camp here as well. Avoid visiting on weekends when it can get busy. It’s also closed on Wednesdays. Canyon tours: I didn’t do this, so can’t recommend a specific tour, but if you’re down for canyoning and going through caves, you can book a tour in Santiago or nearby to do this! Where to Stay in Santiago: You can camp at the Santa Rita Hot Springs if you have your own gear, or you can spend the night at the Rancho at the waterfall on Airbnb. There’s no electricity, but it looks like a wonderful experience and one I’d probably do next time!

　　8. San Jose Del Cabo

　　I have a confession to make, I stayed at an all inclusive in San Jose Del Cabo and I honestly loved it, though I felt torn, too!

　　My reason for going back down to Cabo was to swim with sharks out of Cabo San Lucas, but I don’t find that Cabo San Lucas has many redeeming qualities, so I decided to book Garrett and I into a fancy hotel in San Jose with a gorgeous view. I honestly hadn’t realized until after I booked it that it was an all inclusive!

　　The great part: How easy it was to just relax and enjoy the surroundings. We didn’t have to think about anything, and I thought that the food was good.

　　The bad part? All inclusive tends to inspire a lot of excess and therefore tend to be quite wasteful, I also didn’t appreciate all of the plastic that they used in the hotel. I’m talking everything from shampoo bottles to the device you use to order room service (that has to be torn out of the plastic to charge it anyways) were wrapped up. I really wish they wouldn’t!

　　That said, for one night of bliss, we were super careful to only order what we would eat, and if you’d like the same experience, this is how I paid for it entirely in points, and this is where you can book at yourself.

　　Things to do in San Jose Del Cabo:

　　Photo of me by Noor There’s all kinds of sea life at the end of the peninsula where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific. At any given time of year, you could see whales, different kinds of sharks, Mobula rays, and more.

　　I recommend freediving with sharks with Baja Shark Experience, who also run Magdalena Bay trips. The trip was a bit pricey, but totally worth it when we got to swim with a blue shark for over 2 hours!

　　Road trip itinerary When planning your Baja Sur road trip, you have two options in terms of the route:

　　1. Do a round trip, renting and returning a car from the same place. SJD (Los Cabos International Airport) is the best place for this, and you will fly in and out of this airport.

　　2. Do a one-way rental, starting from Los Cabos and returning the car in Loreto. You will fly into SJD and fly out of LTO Loreto International Airport.

　　Our road trips were both return trips, starting and finishing in Cabo, and the route we shared here is for a return trip.

　　But if you want to do a one-way trip, we would recommend this route:

　　San Jose del Cabo Santiago La Ventana Todos Santos La Paz Magdalena Bay Mulege Loreto Renting a car at the airport in San Jose Del Cabo If you’ve ever rented a car before in Mexico, you’ll know that what you see is not what you get in terms of the price online. Even if they promise that it includes all of the insurance, you will still arrive in Mexico only to be told that the insurance costs extra. I’m always prepared for this in Cancun, but in Baja Sur it’s the worst, where the price can quadruple.

　　For this reason, I recommend not booking and paying for a car ahead of time, but rather haggling in person when you’re there. Make sure that you get everything clearly in writing, do calculations for the currency rate, and film the car before renting. It’s one of the more scammy rental experiences I’ve had – just Google any car rental agency down there and you’ll see nothing but one star reviews. But if you know how to play the game you’ll be fine. We were able to get a 16 day sedan rental from Sixt for $480, which wasn’t bad!

　　The best way to get a good price is to take a van to Hertz or Sixt and negotiate in person, or only talk to the people at the actual labeled booths right near the exit of the airport. Always be willing to walk away.

　　It’s annoying, but it’s just the way it’s done down there!

　　Renting or returning a car in Loreto There are a number of car rental agencies at the airport in Loreto. If you don’t want to do a round trip and drive all the way back to San Jose del Cabo, you can coordinate to pick your car up in Cabo and return it in Loreto or vice versa.

　　The same rules apply about the confusing pricing and insurance add-ons if you’re picking up a car in Loreto.

　　Loreto has a small international airport that has limited flights within Mexico and to some US and Canadian cities, so you can start or end your Baja California Sur road trip there.

　　All in all, Baja has so many adventures, and there’s something enchanting about the way the cacti stretch right out to the sea, and this road trip through Baja Sur gives you an amazing taste of it. Enjoy the starry nights, the calmness, and the amazing aquatic adventures!

　　About Sally: Sally Rodrick is the voice behind Sally Sees. She has spent months travelling in Mexico and Central America, and helps thousands of readers discover the magic of Latin America. Sharing detailed guides to inspire and equip them with the knowledge they need to plan their own epic adventures in this incredible part of the world.