To dip, or not to dip in the holy water of the Sangam. That is the question on my mind as I navigate the calm waters of the Yamuna in a boat. I wouldn't have spared it a second thought on any other occasion. But this is the Mahakumbh, a monumental event that occurs only once in 144 years! Even the sceptic in me is overwhelmed by the sheer significance and energy of the occasion. As my boat inches closer to the Triveni Sangam, the sacred confluence of the holy rivers Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati that the city of Prayagraj in Uttar Pradesh is best known for, the air thickens with the rhythmic sound of chants, the fragrance of incense and the collective anticipation of thousands. It's impossible to remain indifferent. I decide to take the plunge, nudged by the belief that this act, steeped in tradition, might be more than just a ritual—it might be a moment of connection, transformation, or even clarity.
With a prayer on my lips and a chill running down my spine, I step into the sacred waters. The icy embrace is invigorating and humbling, washing over me with a sense of renewal. I'm told that in the coming days of the Mahakumbh, the number of people taking the holy dip at the confluence will run in the millions, especially on the most auspicious days of the shahi snan, or royal bath. The Mahakumbh is expected to draw over 450 million devout devotees and curious travellers over the 45 days of the festival until February 26, making it the largest gathering on earth!
The scale of the arrangements is as staggering as the event itself: a sprawling tent city of over 4,000 hectares, with 150,000 tents including a few luxury camps such as Justa Shivir Jhusi and Bookmark Naga Shivir, 30 pontoon bridges, and 98 special trains to accommodate and transport the faithful. Over 50,000 security personnel and AI-powered surveillance ensure safety amid the crowd, while 11 temporary hospitals have been set up to provide 24-hour medical services. Back on land and invigorated by my dip in the Sangam, I wander through the tent city, marvelling at the scale of it all.
The winter sun is kissing the horizon when I make it to the Juna Akhara for a late lunch. Ancient monastic orders of Hindu ascetics, akharas are central to the spiritual and cultural essence of the Mahakumbh. Among the 13 recognized akharas, each tied to traditions of Shaivism, Vaishnavism, or Shaktism, the Juna Akhara is one of the most prominent. Seated in one of their dining halls, I relish a delicious meal of puris, rice, dal, sabzi, papad and raita, prepared by the sadhus and served with unreserved generosity.
Dusk has fallen by the time I leave the akhara, and the sound of conch shells, drums and peppy devotional music blaring from speakers fills the air as the akharas begin their grand processions. Dozens of tableaus drive past the crowd assembled by the roadside, each like a vibrant, moving stage. Decorated with flowers, lights, and religious symbols, they carry sadhus, priests, and idols of deities. At the same time, performers enact mythological scenes—the crowd cheers and chants, adding to the electric atmosphere of devotion and celebration.
As I reach the Triveni Ghat, the Ganga aarti is in progress. Priests, clad in silk dhotis and angavastrams, perform synchronized rituals, holding massive brass lamps that cast golden reflections on the river's rippling surface. The fragrance of incense mingles with the cold night air as mantras and bhajans resonate, creating an aura of devotion that touches everyone present. The flames rise and fall with the rhythm of the prayers; the scene feels like a divine offering to the cosmos.
The campgrounds are still abuzz at this late hour, and making my way through it, I stumble upon a group of naga sadhus. These ash-smeared, unclothed ascetics, clad only in rudraksha beads, are revered for their extreme renunciation and unwavering devotion. Followers of the Shaivite tradition, they symbolize a life beyond material attachments, dedicating themselves to meditation and spiritual pursuits. Meeting them feels like stepping into another realm—intense gazes, profound silence, or cryptic words that seem to carry ancient wisdom. Receiving their blessings, often with a touch of their trident or ash smeared on the forehead, feels profoundly transformative as if connecting to a primal, spiritual essence.
Walking away from the Mahakumbh, I feel awe and humility. This gathering of millions is not just a festival but a living, breathing expression of humanity's timeless quest for meaning. Amid the chants, the lights, and the flowing waters of the Sangam, I find a sense of stillness, a momentary pause to reflect on the sacred and the infinite within.
The Kumbh Mela holds profound spiritual significance in Hinduism, as it's believed that bathing in the sacred waters of the Sangam during the Kumbh washes away sins and grants moksha (liberation). The event is rooted in ancient mythology, with the most popular tale being that of the 'Samudra Manthan' (churning of the ocean). According to legend, during this cosmic churning, the nectar of immortality (amrit) was spilled at four locations—Haridwar, Allahabad (Prayagraj), Nashik, and Ujjain, which became the sacred sites for the Kumbh. The Mahakumbh is one of three types, each with its significance. The Ardh Kumbh, held every six years, marks a smaller gathering, while the Purna Kumbh, occurring every 12 years, is a full-scale event. The Mahakumbh, the grandest of them all, takes place every 144 years, drawing millions in a celebration of divine immersion and spiritual renewal.
The Kumbh Mela, particularly the Maha Kumbh, is often linked to celestial alignments and the unique position of the planets. Astrologers believe that the Sun, Moon, Jupiter, and Pushya constellation are aligned perfectly during the Mahakumbh, creating a rare and powerful cosmic convergence. This alignment, known as "Kumbh" or the "Amrit Kalash," is thought to enhance the spiritual and physical benefits of bathing in the sacred waters. The alignment is believed to amplify the earth's magnetic field, making the river waters at the four locations particularly charged, adding a layer of health benefits to immersion. This combination of astronomy and ancient belief systems underscores the Kumbh Mela as a spiritual and scientifically intriguing phenomenon.
Arrangements at the Mahakumbh are vast and diverse, catering to the needs and budgets of millions of pilgrims and visitors. Temporary camps have been set up along the ghats, offering basic accommodations with shared facilities. There are premium options for those seeking more comfort, including mobile cottages and luxury tents with modern amenities.
The juSTa Shivir camp, located by a serene stretch of the Ganga and away from the crowd and chaos of the main grounds, offers a luxurious blend of spirituality and comfort. Premium and Luxury Tents feature elegant, hand-block printed interiors, king-size four-poster beds, and an expansive view of the river. The Family Suite Tents cater to families with two king-size beds and state-of-the-art amenities. Dining is strictly vegetarian, with Jain and Satvik kitchens adhering to the sacred atmosphere. Various spiritual and wellness activities, such as yoga sessions, meditation, yajnas, and astrology workshops, are offered to enhance the stay. Amenities include daily housekeeping and shuttle and boat services to and from the Sangam, about 3 km away, making it a prime spot for participants of this spiritual gathering.
(Tariff starts at INR 9,000 on regular snan dates and INR 25,000 on shahi snan dates per night for Premium Tents, inclusive of all three meals;
The Bookmark Naga Shivir camp offers a more immersive stay experience within the Juna Akhara at the main campgrounds. Premium accommodations in luxury tents with king-size beds, modern amenities, and facilities such as daily housekeeping and emergency lighting ensure comfort and safety. A unique aspect of this camp is its emphasis on spiritual rituals like havan, yajna, and processions led by Akhara saints, culminating in holy dips at Triveni Sangam. Vegetarian dining complements the overall spiritual ambience, creating a memorable experience for pilgrims.
(Tariff starts at INR 22,500 for Premium Tents per night)
At the Mahakumbh, food is a harmonious blend of spirituality and local flavours. Pilgrims can relish traditional bhog—sanctified meals prepared in temple kitchens—typically including khichdi, puri, sabzi, and sweet offerings like halwa. The streets of Prayagraj come alive with stalls serving regional delicacies like chaat, samosas, and kachoris stuffed with spiced lentils, along with piping-hot jalebis and malpua for those with a sweet tooth. Don't miss the refreshing kulhad chai or the cooling peda and peda malai, perfect for rejuvenating after rituals. Additionally, sattvik (pure vegetarian) meals, aligned with spiritual practices, are widely available, ensuring visitors remain immersed in the event's sanctity while savouring the region's vibrant flavours. Read more here.
Beyond the sacred rituals, the Mahakumbh in Prayagraj offers many cultural and historical experiences. Pilgrims can visit the iconic Lete Hue Hanuman Temple, dedicated to Lord Hanuman, where the deity is depicted in a reclining posture, a unique sight revered by devotees. Nearby, the Akbar Fort, an architectural marvel built by Emperor Akbar, houses the revered Patalpuri Temple and the sacred Akshayavat, or the immortal banyan tree, both of immense spiritual importance. Visitors can also explore Saraswati Koop, believed to be the source of the Saraswati River, and the historic Anand Bhavan, the ancestral home of the Nehru family, which now serves as a museum.