Whether it is the clanging sound of crab shells against a vessel that gives a dish its name or a cucumber-rawa cake, Pathare Prabhu cuisine is unique in more ways than one. This one-of-a-kind cuisine is not only a melting pot of various cultures, but also a treasured heirloom for the people of the Pathare Prabhu community. Outlook Traveller spoke to Soumitra Velkar, chief food officer (as he likes to call himself) at Hungry Cat Kitchen to understand the cuisine and its flavours.

　　“Until I turned 21 and went to college, I was not introduced to any cuisine other than Pathare Prabhu,” said Velkar. He grew up around his Aaji ("paternal grandmother") in a traditional Pathare Prabhu household and received most of his recipes as heirloom from his grandmother.

　　The Pathare Prabhu community is a close-knit micro community that stays guarded against external influences—whether it is in their lives or their unique cuisine. The seafood-heavy Pathare Prabhu cuisine differs in ingredients and cooking methods, both.

　　History Of The Community

　　While there are various versions of the community’s history and origins, Pathare Prabhus are believed to be the oldest migrants to arrive in Mumbai from Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is believed they came roughly 700 years ago.

　　Some believe that the people of the community were living under the rule of Raja Bimba in Patan, Gujarat in the 11th century. A dynasty change in the 13th century is believed to have led them to travel south and finally settle in Kelve Mahim and Vasai in coastal Maharashtra. Others are of the belief that the people of the community are descendants of the Pratihar dynasty, which also gives them their name.

　　Decoding Pathare Prabhu Cuisine

　　For a community that has lived along the coast for over seven centuries now, fish, prawns and seafood have become an integral part of the cuisine. “Even in our vegetables, you would spot a prawn lurking around somewhere. As children, we were allured to the dish because of its presence,” recounted Velkar.

　　The Ghol Fish, that is popular along the north Konkan belt that stretches from Mumbai and Dahanu to Alibaug, is a popular ingredient in the cuisine. Prawns of all kinds, including large, small (called karandi), and tiny (zowda) ones are also prominent.

　　But beyond the fish, there's many ingredients that make up the cuisine. Velkar delved deeper, enlightening about some of the indigenous components that he believes have become endangered—in common knowledge and availability, both. Seaweed called machol, tuber called kasra, tarla (palmyra roots), and rajeli bananas are some of the many ingredients make this list. Today, these are found only with a few vendors.

　　Pathare Prabhu Sambhar masala

　　However, the star of every Pathare Prabhu dish is their Pathare Prabhu Sambhar powder. The masala can include anywhere between 11- 24 ingredients and the proportions vary across different households. This masala is at the heart of most Pathare Prabhu dishes.

　　It is usually a combination of multiple garam masalas including coriander, cumin seeds, turmeric powder, fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns among other ingredients. The binding agent is wheat and/or chana dal. Some households use both the binding agents, while others opt for one of the two.

　　Hotpot Of Various Cuisines

　　The community is believed to have travelled the length and breadth of Western India, and influences of their travels have left faint stains on the cuisine and food habits. Whether it is the distribution of ghevar (a Rajasthani sweet dish) as a part of their Diwali faral (Diwali sweets and delicacies) or the peripheral presence of coconut that comes from the Malvani cuisine (which otherwise has no influence on the cuisine), these cultural influences make themselves visible in some form or the other.

　　The cuisine’s use of coconut is restricted to garnishings, and as coconut milk. This is in stark contrast to Malvani cuisine, where coconut forms the base and body of most gravies.

　　The Gujarati Undhiyu finds presence in the Pathare Prabhu cuisine in the form of Ghada, that is usually prepared during Makar Sankranti. It features an assortment of tubers including purple yam, sweet potato, kohlrabi, radish, winter carrots, turnip, beetroot, among others. It also includes at least four to five varieties of beans (papdi), surti, makhania, green vaal, and vaarva. Prawns, Ghol fish, and/or mutton are also added to Ghada.

　　Since the dish is a coming together of a host of vegetables, chopping these becomes a mammoth task for one person to do. Instead, each household comes up with one vegetable and many households come together to make the dish, making the cooking of Ghada a communal affair.

　　Five Must-Try Pathare Prabhu Dishes

　　Velkar suggested five dishes that someone new to the cuisine must try to get a better understanding the cuisine and its flavours.

　　Khadkhadla: a shellfish dish with the most prominent ingredient being the Pathare Prabhu sambhar masala along with red chillies and lots of garlic. The gravy acquires a sauce-like consistency that coats the shellfish without leaving behind a lot of rasa (liquid gravy). It is usually paired with rice and coconut curry.

　　Bhujna: stew made with onion and garlic, believed to be a comfort food for many people of the community. There is no active cooking or tadka involved before the ingredients are all mixed together. Onions, garlic, green chilli, red chilli, coriander, and turmeric are used to marinate the base of the dish (could be Ghol fish or a vegetable). It is then allowed to cook until the onions are properly done. No stirring or sautéing is required; the protein simmers to completion.

　　Ananasa che Sambhare: a pineapple and cashew curry prepared for weddings, religious ceremonies, and celebrations. The unique dish has a sweet yet spicy profile, made possible owing to the use of coconut milk and besan as a thickening agent.

　　A family favourite and a Sunday meal in most Pathare Prabhu households is Mutton Gode. Its vegetarian version is called Godi Batati. It is a vegetable stew that uses the Pathare Prabhu sambhar masala as its standout ingredient.

　　Another dessert served as a part of a Pathare Prabhu thali at weddings is Sagoo or Boba Basundi. It uses large boba or tapioca pearls, and is cooked in basundi. It does not have any flavourings like cardamom or saffron.

　　Some other delicacies that you must try include Tavsa, which is a cucumber cake made with rice rawa, grated cucumber, ghee, and sugar; and Tel poli, which is similar to the Maharashtrian Puran Poli but crispier.

　　A 100-year-old cookbook called "Gruhini Mitra" by Laxmibai Dhurandhar documents the recipes of the cuisine.

　　Bonus: Recipe For Chimbori Che Khadkhadle

　　Chimbori Che Khadkhadle is a coveted mud crab-based dish. The name comes from the rhythmic clanging sound of the crab shells against the walls of the kadhai ("cauldron," in which the dish is made). Usually, female crabs filled with orange roe are preferred over the males to make this dish.

　　Ingredients:

　　5-6 large sized crabs

　　3 tbsp garlic paste

　　1 pinch hing (asafoetida)

　　1 tsp haldi

　　1 tbsp Kashmiri red chilli powder

　　½ tbsp Pathare Prabhu sambhar powder

　　1/2 cup oil

　　Salt to taste

　　Water as required

　　Method:

　　Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed flat vessel. Add a pinch of hing.

　　Once it tempers, add garlic paste, salt, haldi powder, red chilli powder and Pathare Prabhu sambhar powder.

　　Cook for about a minute till the raw smell dissipates.

　　Next, add cleaned crabs with a bit of water.

　　Cover and let cook on on medium flame until the shells turn bright orange in colour.

　　Serve hot with rice.